I have tears in my eyes. The rumors are true. Marc Jacobs is exiting Louis Vuitton. With three little words, “It’s been great.”, Jacobs confirmed that he is ending his reign; and, did it with all the panache and excitement he has brought to the brand (that badly needed his skills and is now on top of the world like Jacobs).
It was all about showgirls. When asked about his inspiration, “The first thing I thought was about Esther Williams and synchronized swimming,” he said. “But then, I decided I wanted to do something about black, sparkling black, and texture and night!” I’m so glad he did along with a touch of denim. With 41 looks, each a triumph and a play on his entire catalog of work, he paraded everything from the opening Stephen Sprouse LV-logo bodysuit complete with chains, handcuffs and the famed “bondage mask. (which we actually gifted to Astrid for her birthday). Next came a fantastical array of beaded and feathered to embroidered jackets, pailette-pavéd dresses, which are a clear nod to Mrs. Prada and her inspiration, to “ultra-elaborate couture.”
This was also a show about shows. Jacobs went with an all-black theme and then referenced the fairground carousel, the fountain occasion, the lift, the hotel, the escalators, the backward-running station clock. There was also a special nod to “Americanism” in its finest form. Denim. Whooops. Denim embellished. Denim with the famed Daimer pattern. Moto jackets. A sequined sports “jersey.” It just continued to amp up from there.He had so many of the themes that are so au courant. Sheers. Feathers. Jet beads. Lady-like bags but fully bedecked. Bodysuits. Victorian gowns.
We can only imagine the waiting lists for this collection as every girl I know will be lusting after absolutely everything in this collection especially the New York and LA contingents. That means Jacobs will be wholly focused on New York and his brand(s). Imagine all that creativity this side of the ocean. Great for us. Not so great for Louis Vuitton. No wonder all the shop girls are jumping ship on Rodeo Drive.
One final note. Jacobs left a simple and very personal sign-off letter on every seat. He named 34 editors, designers, and performing superstars (past and very much present) as a special thank you. His last word? “To the showgirl in all of us!”
Fade to Black.
NJ Goldston, The Brunette