NYFW Spring 2014: Marc Jacobs Victorian Victory


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When everyone else zigs, Marc Jacobs zags. This is the brilliance of a great designer, a great creative, and any unique thinker. White. White White. No. No. No. Victorian it is. Reinterpreted for today’s world, Jacobs says (and I swear we were thinking this and forgot to say it out-loud), “none of his friends wear all white.” Hmmm. Is that a barometer for fashion buyers? Perhaps they should take heed and temper the all-white mix. I digress.

So begone minimalism.  The period piece is back with high collars, tassels, puffed sleeves, appliqués and re-purposed into brilliant sailor’s jackets, shorts and gowns, many with a military bent, or as if Queen Victoria in mourning—was about to appear— sans bustle or crinoline. Sleeves are reworked and everything is smothered in over the top detail. Making it a visual feast. Hmmm…if Victorian mores confined us perhaps over the top fashion now liberates us. Maybe that’s why we’ll be wigged out and wide-eyed with stunning neon liners.

Jacobs says he “didn’t want the cliché of Spring and Summer. I wanted it to be about girls who have no problem coming to work in a Victorian gown and Birkenstocks.” I want to meet those girls but knowing New York and “It” girls everywhere, if Marc declares it, so be it. My money’s on Marc.


NJ Goldston, The Brunette